The sun is setting as we arrive at The Blind Monk, described by owner and chef Ben Lubin as “a tapas and wine bar,” although it also features a range of craft beers by the bottle. It is one room, with a bar on one side; on the far wall are racks of wines mounted 20 feet high, to the ceiling, with the small kitchen below.
On the left wall, classic films are shown, though with no intrusive sound. This is more art and ambience than cinema. Tonight’s showing is Casablanca — fitting, as we are to start with a white wine from the Casablanca Valley in Chile.
Lubin opened The Blind Monk in 2010 so that he would have somewhere to relax — he didn’t want a new career — but he grew to like, and now to love, his creation.
Tonight, we have five wines: two white and three red, from Chile and Argentina. Enjoying the sampling are nine of us, including Lubin; his wine director, Reese Fisher; and Eric O’Connor, of Transatlantic Wines, the distributor of this evening’s selection.
The Ritual Sauvignon Blanc Casablanca 2012 from Chile is poured. The Ritual is one of three brands produced by the Veramonte winery, which has vineyards in the Casablanca and the Colchagua valleys. The Veramonte lies about halfway between Santiago and Valparaiso and is open to visitors. It was founded in 1990 by Agustin Huneeus, who also owns the Quintessa wine estate in Napa Valley.
Chief winemaker Rodrogo Soto uses sustainable farming to produce the Ritual Sauvignon Blanc, which has a pale straw color with a green tinge.
The nose is overflowing with fresh crisp aromas of ripe melon and citrus, which come through in the palate together with a distinct grapefruit and mineral taste — plus hints of French oak. This vino (Spanish for “wine”) complements the oyster-and-mushroom ceviche well. The finish is reasonably long, with a slight acidity.
SUBHEAD — Argentina’s offerings
Next, we move east, into Argentina, to compare the Tilia Torrontés Salta vintage 2011. The torrontés grapes are usually very fragrant, and they have become the signature white-wine grape of Argentina, although the Spanish conquistadores originally cultivated them.
The Tilia is oak-free and made from torrontés grapes, grown in the Cafayate wine region. The area, in the province of Salta, is known for high-altitude vineyards (some more than 5,000 feet above sea level).
It has a floral nose — perhaps of white roses, honeysuckle and recently dried flowers. The palate blends the floral nose with peaches and apricots. Bodegas Esmeralda, which is owned by the Catena family, makes the Tilia. It works well with the shrimp-and-sweet-corn hash, which has a spicy finish.
As we move from white wines to red, Lubin explains that the Blind Monk name was derived from the famous Benedictine monk Dom Pierre Pérignon, who tasted his grapes without knowing the source vineyard. This “blind tasting” eventually led to the high quality of the Dom Pérignon champagne.
Now that Lubin has committed himself fully to The Blind Monk, he is keen to increase his skills and knowledge (and those of his staff) with an emphasis on training that includes accreditation by the Court of Master Sommeliers. He and Fisher have completed the second of four levels so far.
The first red is poured; it is a Nieto Bonardo Reserva Mendoza, vintage 2011, from Argentina. Wine made from the bonardo grape is almost unknown outside Argentina, though it is a popular, easy-drinking wine within the country.
The area around Mendoza is the largest wine-producing region in Latin America. In recognition, Mendoza has been named one of the nine cities worldwide in the network of Great Capitals of Wine. The bonardo grape has a thin skin and is highly susceptible to rot, so it is best suited to dry, almost desert conditions like those found in the Mendoza wine region.
The bonardo’s origins have been debated for years, but it seems probable that it is based on the corbeau grape from the Savoie region in the French Alps.
The vineyards of Nieto Senetiner were created in 1888 by a group of Italian immigrants and acquired by the Nieto Senetiner family in 1969. It is now owned by Group Molinos Rio de la Plata. The bonardo is a violet-red color, and the nose has an abundance of red and black fruit.
The palate reflects the six months spent in French oak and provides distinct but pleasant hints of chocolate and smokiness in the finish. The flavors come together in an unusual but enjoyable combination. The chicken tamale is a good match.
SUBHEAD — Reds from Chile
We move back to Chile for the last two reds. The Casa Silva Carménère Reserva Colchagua, vintage 2010, arrives. The Carménère grape is one of the original six red-grape varieties of Bordeaux, planted mainly in the Médoc. Casa Silva is a well-known and highly regarded producer of Carménère wines. The grapes are hand-harvested on a plant-by-plant basis.
Casa Silva was founded in 1892, and its winemaker is fifth-generation Mario Silva. The three vineyards include 90-year-old vines based on root stock from Bordeaux. The wine, swirled in the glass, shows some legs and displays a dark ruby color.
The nose has aromas of ripe red fruit, tobacco and hints of coffee. There is a spicy, peppery aspect to the palate, which is well-rounded and shows orange zest and refined tannins in the finish. We try some chorizo with chimichurri sauce. There are smiles all round.
The last wine, the Primus Red Blend Colchagua, vintage 2010 is poured. It is a blend of four grape varieties: 65 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 percent Syrah, eight percent Merlot and seven percent Carménère. It is interesting to taste this blend, with its small amount of the Carménère, compared to the 100 percent Carménère in the Casa Silva.
The nose has a hard-to-ignore medicinal aroma. The palate has an earthiness and clear ripe fruit; it is a chewy, powerful wine — more strength than finesse — although it will probably outlast the others, which are for drinking now.
It will be interesting to see how the Red Blend Colchagua develops: It hails from the same winery as the Ritual but is offered under the Primus name. The blend also has its own winemaker, Cristian Aliaga; and its own wine consultant, Alvaro Espinoza.
There will be more from the world of wine on the first and third Sundays each month, so I shall see you in two weeks. I plan to taste the Ritual, the Nieto Senetiner and the Casa Silva again, and soon.
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Paul William Coombs has enjoyed a successful career — leading business-consulting and technology companies — but his passion has always been wine. He seeks to promote an increased understanding, appreciation and enjoyment of wine through his column.