CLEVELAND, Ohio – This week we try four Malbecs from Argentina – Criterion Reserva, Decopas and a pair from Don Miguel Gascon.
When you see "Malbec" on a label, chances are it's next to "Mendoza."
Criterion.
Mendoza is an Argentinian province that sits on the western part of the South American nation, about 150 miles northeast of Santiago, Chile. The Andes Mountains are right there, and grapes are grown at a variety of climates. Malbec is the region's bread-and-butter varietal.
Criterion Reserva
Pine-like on the nose, with tobacco, a dry smokiness and medium tannins. This wine has black pepper notes and a subtle hint of a smoked-meat-like finish. This would hold up to steak and hearty red sauces. Enjoyable sipper with some guts to it.
Decopas.
Info: $14, composite cork, criterioncellars.com, 2012.
Decopas
This one really split our tasting panel. One enjoyed it, with its roast-meat aroma with port-like, raisin and leather flavors. I found it undrinkable. The very tail end of the finish has a brettanomyces-like flavor that ruins what could be a decent wine, which has hints of green pepper and herbal flavors. The colorful, playful label might grab a few buyers, though. Its name, loosely translated, means "by the glass."
Info: $12, screw cap, excelsiorwines.com/winery/decopas, 2014.
Gascon '13.
Don Miguel Gascon 2013
Our tasting panel had fun with this pairing. The big difference between these wines is a French-like funky aroma in the '13 that is not there at all with the '14. A bit of tobacco leads to a tart cherry finish. One nit to pick: While the larger dominant label is slightly different (vintage and alcohol percentage had to be changed, of course) the smaller label is identical in its tasting notes. It should have been subbed out. If several of us can detect differences between these two wines, then the vineyard should have bothered to rewrite the label description.
Info: $15, composite cork, gasconwine.com, 2013.
Don Miguel Gascon 2014
Some spiciness comes through in the aroma – an upgrade over the funkiness of the '13. While similar overall, this wine appears to have a bit more tannins.
Gascon '14.
Info: $15, composite cork, gasconwine.com, 2014.
My pick: Criterion.
Marc Bona reviews and writes about wine for Northeast Ohio Media Group. Wines reviewed should be readily available in Northeast Ohio. Email him with news of any upcoming wine-related events.
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